Can Duprasi Live In Pairs?

Absolutely doops can live in pairs – however they are more commonly sold as singles.

That was the way it was up until around 5 or so years ago when more and more people are finding that pairs of fat-tailed gerbils can live together with just the odd squabble here and there which is often resolved with an extra glass jar, second wheel or a little bit of a time out.

Just like with all rodents there can be squabbling or fighting under certain circumstances with a pair – and as a result of this pairs may need to be split at some point. Mongolian gerbils, jirds, Syrian hamsters and guinea pigs are all the same in that respect.

At the moment though, it is very common – and often advised – to have duprasi live alone – so you have the best of both worlds.

You can choose whichever you want to try.

Mongolian Gerbils fight in pairs though too, don’t they?

Yes, they can – and often do. Mongolian gerbils can have what is called a ‘de-clan’ where two gerbils are fighting for the dominant position in a pair or trio. This can end very badly for the loser – and the fighting pair need to be moved apart permanently.

Mongolian gerbils are always advised to be sold as a pair. If you only buy a single you are often encouraged to get another one for a split-tank introduction so they can have a friend. They certainly do look like they are best friends when together.

However, even these new pairs can end up fighting under certain circumstances.

Is the warning that doops might fight if in a pair too really something to stop you having a pair of duprasi yourself?

Can Duprasi Live Happily Alone?

Yes, all our duprasi who live alone do not seem any the wiser that there are other options.

They just potter around in their own little world, digging, chewing, exploring and running in their wheels as often as possible – we think a doop prefers their wheel to another doop for sure!!!

Doops were always advised to live alone in the past because not only do they do well on it – but doops attack each others tails when they fight. And the tail is what we love about these critters – so we don’t want to see it all torn and bruised. No-one does.

In a shared tank – tail biting – along with much squealing and face-slapping – are signs that their enclosure needs modifying to help them settle. So extra nest spots – we always say one for each doop and a spare in any enclosure – as well as a second wheel if you don’t already have one for sure.

Doops can fight very badly though if not watched and attended to. They can even lose half of their tail in really bad breeding arguments – but a doops mating ritual is usually a bit of a fight as the male needs to prove that he is worthy. But that isn’t what usually happens with same-sex pairs – so don’t worry too much about that.

Help – My Fat-Tailed Gerbils Are Fighting!

If you have seen or heard that your duprasi are fighting but neither appear seriously injured (in which case remove that one into a hospital cage immediately) – you need to assess the situation promptly. Firsty though – right now – put in a new clean jar with some nesting material or hay in it as a distraction as well as to create a new hiding space.

Then – first things first would be the following 2 essentials:

• Are your duprasi definitely the same sex?
• Is one of your duprasi ill?

Same sex: If your doops haven’t been 100% confirmed by multiple people as both the same sex – especially if they are young – then get this done asap. The mating ritual of fat-tailed gerbils looks like fighting and a mixed-sex duprasi couple could have been living together for many months without having pups. Duprasi don’t have a regular preganancy cycle like Mongolian gerbils do.

Good Health: A common reason for gerbil fighting is ill health – but you can’t always see it – so you have to look for it. Checking the duprasi’s teeth and monitoring their weight are two ways to do this effectively. Doops weights can vary considerably under different circumstances, so this isn’t always so easy.

Next steps to help calm the situation would include:

Check you have a nest for each doop and one spare for sure. Even if they aren’t using them – they still need them in there.

Check that you have at least one clean fresh wheel – and add a second wheel if you can for at least the short term if not – permanently.

Add a clean fresh sand bath into the enclosure – this allows them to refresh their coats and soak off some of their natural scents – potentially re-setting the scent-marking in the enclosure.

As always – best to replace and rotate homes and enrichments to make sure no one scent builds up too much in the enclosure. An overly well-lived in enclosure may just be messing with their noses. Keep cleaning out the corners, ledges and other areas, and rotating the clean substrate. No need for full brand new clean outs, as I am sure – just like ordinary gerbils – a bit of the old smell might help them stay settled.

Last resort – or if one was seriously injured or the bickering was relentless – would be to split them up into the enclosures temporarily – say for a few days or even a week. Then once they are totally calmed down – and you have done an almost complete clean out – pop them back in to the original enclosure with plenty of food and distractions. Hopefully after a bit of a re-introduction over night (when they are most active of course) all should be well.

If you aren’t happy for them to be together at any time – or decide to keep them separate – then no harm will come of it.

Alone they will be just as happy – and there will be no more squabbling.

Totally up to you.